“L’appetito vien mangiando.”
“Sometime around sunset” my Italian teacher told me, when I first asked him years ago what time people fare l’aperitivo (‘do the aperitivo’) here. Aperitivo in Italy is a must. It is a way of life, built into Italian culture and into the day, so when I’m here I build it into mine. Over the years I’ve come to know that the reality is that Italians “do the aperitivo” just about any time of day after 10:30am. But as Luca told me, I prefer to find my Campari Spritz just before sunset.
“Dove facciamo l’aperitivo stasera?” (Where are we going for aperitivo today?) When you hear this question in Italy you start to become relaxed, think about winding down the day with friends (or solo!), a light drink, and hopefully a view. Aperitivo is a tradition we at STC take very seriously in Italy – meaning we incorporate it every day! So relax, order a spritz, enjoy some stuzzichini (snacks) and chat with your neighbors. Aperitivo is Italy’s way of unwinding – and what a beautiful way to unwind it is.
What is aperitivo? It is a ritual, a tradition in the Italian day, most notably the weekday – really aperitivo is an art. Traditionally Italians eat lunch around 1pm, and dinner around 8-9pm. So there is quite a gap in between meals, allowing – almost begging – for the lovely tradition of aperitivo; a little cocktail or local wine, accompanied by stuzzichini (light snacks, usually hand-prepared) in the late afternoon. If you’re thinking it’s kind of like happy hour after work, sure. But a little more of an establishment, with a relaxed flow, and the key is to linger.
Aperitivo can be fancy or basic, but it is always fantastic. It is a daily ritual in which you must engage when you come to Italy. You can fare l’aperitivo with friends or even by yourself. I have gone for aperitivo alone many times and in fact used to do this frequently while I was learning Italian in Italy. I would go to class, do my compiti (homework), then find a place with a view to sit outside with my campari spritz or glass of local vino and unwind, chat with locals – for the language learners out there it’s a great way to practice your Italian!
When do you do the aperitivo? Traditionally, aperitivo is held between lunch and dinner, as dinner is eaten much later in the evening in Italy. Italians may meet up after the work day, they may agree to meet at sunset, so usually in the late-afternoon hours between 4pm and 6:30pm. Really you can do the aperitivo any time of day generally speaking after 10:30am, many Italians do. I was recently in Mantova (at the recommendation of the best Italian teacher on the panet Fabrizio, if you haven’t been to Mantova you must go!) and was wandering in Piazza delle Erbe around 10am. Even at 10am there were many Italians sitting outside in the sun drenched piazza drinking a spritz or a glass of local wine, chatting, relaxing. So, I joined them. Sometimes when I am in Venice, particularly in the Cannaregio, I will stop canalside, sit in the sun mid day and grab a glass of local lugana and watch the world go by.
What do you order at aperitivo? There may be variations of drink options depending on where you are in Italy, but classically you’ll order a glass of local wine, a cocktail, or a spritz – which is my drink of choice. The point is not the alcohol, and there are many non-alcoholic options available as well in most establishments. The idea is to sit with a drink, relax and unwind, and soak up the sun. When you sit with a drink at aperitivo, you usually will be brought a few light snacks to accompany your drink. Olives, pattatine (potato chips), taralli (which Maria is obsessed with!), nuts are all classic offerings but stuzzichini can vary widely from place to place. For example I was in Sicily in the Fall and with the order of one single spritz – into which they put a little spoonful of granita and it was absolute heaven! – they brought me a spread of stuzzichini, hot and cold, which would have fed three people for dinner. It was absolutely indulgent and so much fun – and good foreshadowing regarding Sicily. If you are going to Sicily, get ready to eat!
The deal with spritz. Many associate the spritz with Aperol such as an Aperol spritz, which is a fantastic and light drink. For me an Aperol spritz conjures up feels of afternoon sun, sitting on the deck at a particular wine bar in Italy which I love, relaxing and talking with friends with Italian in my ear and all around me. BUT – there are many variations of spritz, and we suggest you try them all! Campari spritz, limoncello spritz, Cynar spritz (look for this in Venice!), hugo spritz, Select spritz… Step out of your comfort zone and try them! Just not all in one sitting per favore 🙂
Aperitivo looks different in different places in Italy. Aperitivo in Venice is different than Sicily, different than Garda, and so on. We say – try it everywhere!
In Venice, it’s cicchetti (pronounced “chi-KET-tee”). In Venice, you seek out the little snacks and they are accompanied graciously by a nice little glass of local wine to wash them down.
What are cicchetti in Venice? Sliced bread never toasted so it is soft, on top of which you will find any number of delicious things, usually seafood or vegetable related. The traditional is baccalà mantecato – rehydrated salt cod whipped until fluffy. It is light and perfect. I always order the cicchetti with lagoon shrimps when I see them, and with this they will approvingly hand me a delicious ombra (small glass) of cold crisp local white wine, I frequently look for a Friulano. Step out of your comfort zone just a bit and try all of the combinations and flavors you would never think of but thankfully they do! Tuna with chocolate? Yep.
In Garda, you will enjoy your aperitivo by the lake – if you are lucky in sunny Salò on the lungolago.
In Sicily, your aperitivo will likely include a larger spread of stuzzichini both hot and cold. As previously mentioned, if you are going to Sicily you need to be ready to eat – multiple times per day, all day, every day. And you won’t be sorry you did, eating in Sicily is an experience you are not likey to forget.
If you are lucky, they will indulgently put a scoop of ice cold granita into your spritz!
Enjoy the art of aperitivo in Italy!
No matter where you fare l’aperitivo, with whom, or what time we strongly suggest you leave room in your day in Italy to live your life in Italian and indulge in this wonderful art form. Relax and unwind in the afternoon, sit in the sun, hear and soak up the Italian all around you.
Ask them in the establishments, behind the counter, or your cameriere (waiter) directly which wine or drink they would recommend for you. In the Italy the servers are friendly (sometimes just busy) and actually enjoy giving advice when asked. The amazing places are largely owned and run by families…and don’t forget they are locals themselves, experts in the local traditions and ingredients. They study the wine and know what to recommend, and are there to help you. It’s also a great way to get some Italian under your belt. You can ask: “Quale vino mi consigliate?” Have fun!
Contact us here and tell us about your aperitivo experience in Italy! We would love to hear from you. ~Amy
